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Vietnam: A well-to-do Vietnamese woman of Saigon wearing áo ngũ thân gown, together with her servant, 1872

Vietnam: A well-to-do Vietnamese woman of Saigon wearing áo ngũ thân gown,  together with her servant, 1872

The áo ngũ thân had a loose fit and sometimes had wide sleeves. Wearers could display their prosperity by putting on multiple layers of fabric, which at that time was costly.

The áo ngũ thân had two flaps sewn together in the back, two flaps sewn together in the front, and a "baby flap" hidden underneath the main front flap. The gown appeared to have two-flaps with slits on both sides, features preserved in the later ao dai. Compared to a modern ao dai, the front and back flaps were much broader and the fit looser. It had a high collar and was buttoned in the same fashion as a modern ao dai.

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