Malaysia: A steamer bringing the mail to the interior along the Lebir River, Kelantan

Kelantan's association with traditional Malay culture dates back at least as far as the 14th century, when the Sungai Kelantan Valley was settled by colonists from distant Java, then itself in the process of converting to Islam.

A state was established, owing allegiance to Sultan Masud Shah of Melaka (1459-77), but because of the region's geographical isolation from the rest of peninsular Malaysia, Kelantan was able to retain a high degree of autonomy, retaining much of its Javanese heritage and distinctive cultural and dialectic differences down through the centuries.

Kelantan's political isolation helped in this process - under a relatively benevolent Thai suzerainty from 1780 to 1909, Siamese control was generally limited to the presentation of bunga mas, or tribute paid to Bangkok in the form of golden trees. Once this tribute was paid, local administration remained largely in the hands of the Kelantan royal family, whilst matters social and religious were the exclusive province of the Kelantanese ulama, or learned Islamic scholars.

In 1909, by treaty agreement made between Britain and Siam, Kelantan became part of British-administered Malaya - but by this time the greater part of Chinese migration to the 'Straits Settlements' of Singapore, Melaka and Penang had already taken place, and Kelantan's ethnic balance remained relatively unchanged - a tranquil, traditional Malay sultanate, shielded by ranks of jungle-clad mountains from the fast-changing west coast.

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